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The energy that causes ocean waves to form is called a disturbing force.

A) True
B) False

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The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without change in direction is the ____.


A) fetch
B) wavelength
C) wind length
D) wind cell

E) All of the above
F) None of the above

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For a wave, the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave energy will move through the water.

A) True
B) False

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Constructive interference in waves can cause ____.


A) an occasional wave greater than any noted before or after its occurrence
B) every other wave to be larger or smaller than those preceding or following
C) waves to get smaller within 24 hours
D) waves to double in height every 24 hours

E) A) and B)
F) All of the above

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When waves approach the shore, a series of changes takes place. One change is that the ____.


A) wave crest becomes peaked
B) wavelength increases
C) wave height decreases
D) wave velocity increases

E) B) and D)
F) All of the above

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Describe how a wave breaks on the shore as it transitions from a deep-water wave to a shallow-water wave.

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As wind waves enter shallow waters and a...

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Which statement is true with regard to internal waves?


A) Internal waves usually move very fast.
B) Internal waves form at the boundary between water layers of different densities.
C) Internal waves are only generated by wind energy.
D) Internal waves form at the junction between air and water.

E) C) and D)
F) A) and D)

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Swell is the result of wave separation or dispersion.

A) True
B) False

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The wavelength of a wave is a measure of the highest part of the wave above the average water level.

A) True
B) False

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Waves at the shore will start to break when the ____.


A) water depth is about twice the wavelength
B) crest flattens into a rounded form
C) wave period increases to 15 seconds
D) wave height-to-water depth ratio is 3:4

E) A) and B)
F) B) and C)

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The distance measured from trough to trough of a wave is called the ____.


A) wavelength
B) wave height
C) wave period
D) orbit

E) A) and B)
F) All of the above

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The abrupt bulge of water driven ashore by a tropical cyclone is called a ____.


A) seiche
B) tsunami
C) storm surge
D) rogue wave

E) A) and B)
F) B) and D)

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When multiple wave trains meet in the ocean, destructive interference can occur, resulting in ____.


A) waves with short crests and troughs
B) waves with very large crests and troughs
C) waves that cause high amounts of property damage
D) a storm surge

E) C) and D)
F) B) and D)

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In shallow water, the motion of water particles ____.


A) ceases completely
B) forms large circular orbits
C) becomes a back-and-forth motion near the bottom
D) becomes an up-and-down motion near the bottom

E) B) and D)
F) All of the above

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Describe how a tsunami is formed and how it can travel great distances at great speeds.

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A tsunami is a shallow-water wave that o...

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Waves with the greatest celerity, or speed, _____.


A) have the longest wavelengths
B) occur in shallow water only
C) form when the wind is blowing less than 0.5 nautical miles per hour
D) have the shortest wavelengths

E) None of the above
F) A) and B)

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A seiche is a short wave found in areas of the ocean farthest away from the continents.

A) True
B) False

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What is a storm surge and how does it differ from a breaking wind wave?

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A storm surge is an abrupt bulge of wate...

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In the open sea, tsunami ____.


A) are giant breaking waves that are dangerous to ships
B) are slow-moving waves, slower than the swell
C) are long-period waves, often of 5-20 minutes
D) have short wavelengths of 100-200 feet, similar to wind waves

E) B) and C)
F) A) and C)

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The Ramapo wave is unique because ____.


A) many lives were lost when it struck the shore
B) it is the largest wave ever observed by people
C) it is the largest wave accurately measured by direct observation
D) it caused the cargo ship, München, to sink

E) C) and D)
F) A) and B)

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